Thursday, May 2, 2024

Pittsburgh Dumpling Project: Unfolding the tastes of Korea, Thailand, Japan and Vietnam Pittsburgh Post-Gazette

the dumpling house

Pittsburgh’s oldest Japanese restaurant keeps it simple with the gyoza prepared in the Station Square establishment’s hot kitchen. Thin wrappers are stuffed with a bouncy chicken stuffing, steamed to tenderness and given a quick fry that offers a bit of extra umami from a slight char. Lai serves handmade chicken and pork dumplings that are made from scratch from wrapper to filling, at his Downtown Korean restaurant, which opened in 2017. Be sure to watch Thumbling’s dumpling makers encased in a glass room. The dumplings here are all top-tier, but the pork siu mai, xiao long bao, and pan-fried chicken bun are the best. Mr Dragon’s ample portion sizes are one reason why it remains a popular spot.

Cindy's Kitchen

White’s website and Instagram account are the best way to find out what and where he’s serving every week. He says he was inspired by Steve Ngo’s Chinese-Vietnamese heritage to look into how he could offer a twist on Vietnamese-style dumplings, which typically have a rice- or tapioca-starch wrapper. We have dumplings in Vietnam, but they aren’t as popular as they are in other Asian countries,” says Minh Luong, chef and owner of Tan Lac Vien, in Squirrel Hill, and Tan Lac Vien 2, at Novo Asian Food Hall. It’s a love letter to the next generation,” says Edward Lai, co-owner and chef of Bae Bae’s Kitchen. Dan Modern Chinese opened its first Pasadena shop in 2018 to serve handmade dumplings like xiao long bao. There are now seven locations dotted throughout the Southland in West LA, Playa Vista, Santa Monica, Manhattan Beach, Long Beach, and Woodland Hills.

the dumpling house

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Vietnamese dumplings have the most potential for growth in Pittsburgh. Roger Li, owner of Umami Izakaya in Lawrenceville, believes that’s because modern gyoza, those of the post-World War II era, are a specialty item found in homes or at shops dedicated to the craft of making them. The history of mandu remains somewhat obscure, yet it is widely acknowledged that their introduction occurred during the 14th century by the Mongol-Chinese Yuan dynasty.

Chicken Momo at Himalayan Cafe

We’re lucky enough to live in a city that offers pan-fried, boiled, deep-fried, grilled and steamed dumplings from all over the world. There’s mandu in Koreatown, dozens of varieties of dumplings in the San Gabriel Valley and soup dumplings almost everywhere. And as I filmed season 2 of “The Bucket List” video series,” with 11 episodes devoted to dumplings, we attempted to try them all.

Also, feel free to ditch the fork and use your hands, as is the custom. Anthony Bourdain picked himself a true OG in the Korean Dumpling game when he visited this hole-in-the-wall. Myung In dumplings are the standard by which dumplings are judged in the L.A. Their famous pleated dumplings are crafted with exceptional care and where other dumpling houses might go a little too bready on their wang mandu, Myung In strikes a nice balance by having a thinner skin.

Boiled Sole Dumpling (Chinese Parsley) at Qing Dao Bread Food

Yong Kwon runs the region’s most charming Korean restaurant, located on a stretch of rural-industrial road in Cecil. Her homestyle menu includes a lovely rendition of mandu pan-fried on both sides to offer a crisp exterior. If you’re in the mood for something brothy, go for the mandu guk, which highlights Kwon’s dumplings in a soothing soup. Thai Place, opened in 1989, is the region’s longest-standing Thai restaurant business.

Garden Grove’s fast-casual spot Crystal Dumplings is a solid Cantonese spot for traditional dim sum dumplings like shu mai and har gow. Reservations are not accepted and the room fills up fast, so plan accordingly. Pine and Crane owner Vivian Ku’s got Silver Lake and Downtown’s dumpling situation locked down. The pan-fried pork buns made with kurobuta pork stand up to anything served in the San Gabriel Valley. It’s easy to find Ixlb Dimsum Eats in Hollywood — just look for the massive dumpling mural and floor-to-ceiling windows on Sunset and Bronson.

Long Xing Ji Juicy Dumpling

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Increase the heat to medium-high and cook, uncovered, until the cornstarch dissolves and dries, forming “wings” that are lacy and crispy, 2 to 4 minutes. Remove skillet from heat and let the gyoza rest in the skillet until any bubbling subsides, 1 to 2 minutes. Adding a little cornstarch slurry to the pan while cooking the dumplings will create a lacy, crispy crust on the bottom called “hane” — Japanese for wings.

Kang Kang Food Court

His passion for blending culinary cultures mirrors the city’s evolving palette, which has come a long way since those first openings in 1983. As diverse cultures continue to shape Pittsburgh’s dining landscape, the personalization of Korean, Thai, Japanese and Vietnamese dumplings offers a delightful gateway into expanding palates across generations. In Pittsburgh, they’re often added as a filler item to a more lengthy menu that incorporates various styles of Japanese restaurants into one catch-all establishment. Han started making dumplings 55 years ago when he was 14 and working in a Korean-Chinese restaurant in Korea. He became the breadwinner for his family after the untimely passing of his father.

Red pepper and coriander deliver a show-stopping punch before the juicy pork filling rounds out the experience with a satisfying, savory finish. Area, owing in large part to its perfectly hand-pleated xiao long bao. The soup is visible through the impossibly thin wrappers and each little delicate bite is famously consistent, whether you've had two pieces or 2,000 in your lifetime across multiple international locations.

The plate was finished with scallion oil, chili oil, green onions and sesame seeds. Chef/owner Simon Chough’s mandu are an exquisite expression of his Korean American heritage. He tends to offer the from scratch dumplings at his Garfield restaurant once or twice a week, so be sure to jump on them if they’re on the menu when you visit (and check Soju’s social media to see when he’s serving). His dumplings have a silky skin filled with a dynamic blend of ingredients and toppings. An April iteration included a mixture of pork, beef, kimchi and tofu perfumed with aromatics and garnished with scallion oil, chili oil, green onions and sesame seeds.

At age 33, she enrolled at the French Culinary Institute (now the Institute of Culinary Education) thinking she might become a food stylist. She had so much fun and loved cooking so much that, after graduating, she became a chef instead, moving to Los Angeles with her husband to become a chef at two Santa Monica restaurants. She found herself compromising once again with ingredients in her chase to conjure the flavors of her childhood during a post-college job at Disney World’s Japan Pavilion in Orlando, Fla. But at least she was honing her skills as a cook, which would prove useful in her next job working for a Japanese culinary school. The simple, home-cooked meals her mother, Yoko, and maternal grandmother, Kiyoko, prepared for their rural customers, using seasonal local ingredients and traditional recipes, were far from fancy. Yet their skillful mix of salty, sweet, sour and bitter — key elements in authentic Japanese cuisine —  were rich with umami flavor.

Its Wexford location is the last of several restaurants with the same name operated by Santi and Surin Thamwiwat, and it’s a solid destination for Thai dumplings. Go for the steamed version, which includes chopped chicken bolstered with herbaceous celery leaves. Diced carrot replaces the more traditional fish roe atop the sui mai, adding a vegetal sweetness.

The wait at this third-floor Lower Lawrenceville izakaya pays off with a plate filled with wrappers that express a duality of shatteringly crunchy and pillowy, and are stuffed with a juicy, garlicky pork filling. The accompanying rayu shoyu dipping sauce and chili threads add an extra oomph of umami and soft heat to each bite. Handmade every step of the way is the key to the gorgeous mandu served at Bae Bae’s Kitchen. The Downtown restaurant offers chicken and pork dumplings, both mixed with cabbage and green onions.

Pan-fried, the dumplings served in Nak Won Garden’s homey dining room are crispy comfort food. As of press time, Seok Kun Han’s gorgeous dumplings are only available on weekends at his Korea Garden 2 restaurant in Novo Asian Food Hall. Though the rainbow soup dumplings look like a social media gimmick, the flavor residing inside these hand-tucked beauties is worth the trek to Paradise Dynasty. The Singapore-based restaurant group is making major inroads in the United States on the back of these dumplings, sporting delicate wrappers and creative fillings, from black truffle and spicy Sichuan with kurobuta pork. The menu extends well beyond dumplings, from terrific beef fried rice to a swoon-worthy radish pastry that’s almost too pretty to eat. Listed on the menu as kyoza, the fried dumplings at this Upper Lawrenceville spot hit the nexus of crispy and juicy better than most in Pittsburgh.

You can get them pan-fried, which adds a nice crispness, but experiencing the supple texture of the steamed version is a real treat. A sprinkle of toasted sesame seeds added as a finishing flourish heightens the depth of flavor of these edible memories of co-owner Edward Lai’s childhood. As he did with his 2023 soup project, Chough uses mandu filling to explore his roots. A recent iteration on the Soju menu saw foraged Western Pennsylvania ramps and morel mushrooms mixed with a blend of pork, beef, kimchi, tofu, ginger, garlic and sesame oil packed into delicate wrappers.

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